Big brands are discovering ways to take on the ‘I made this in my shed this morning’ story of artisan production. In the UK brand leader Müller (from Germany) and new arrival Nom (from Austria) are both emphasising their Shropshire location, and here in France Danone is reminding its customers that milk comes from farmers, not factories.

The assumption behind this brand story is that the farmers operate human‐scale and humane farms, which is presumably perfectly true in France. In the UK the prospect of ‘super‐dairy’ farms arriving from the USA makes me wonder who will want to be associated with that story?