The ambient juice fixture in Whole Foods offers a dizzying choice of mostly undifferentiated small town brands, each with a long family history and commitment to natural ingredients and processing. With label designs straight from the Yankee candle school of twee homeliness, they all appear to be aimed at grandparents, or as they’re called over here, Boomers.

Only Martinelli’s manages to create a sense of authenticity as I would understand it, using a limited colour palette and dense believable typography instead of wafting ribbons and old-fashioned colour drifts. However when it comes to some recent innovations, even this bastion of good taste goes all shrink sleeve and TM. The logic seems to be that new ideas must be both shiny and bright.