Whilst half of their Private Label range could be described as homage à sensual packaging design (the rest being Ready Meals), Marks & Spencer has added two very different offers to maximise its appeal to the middle class shopper.

Firstly there’s a smattering of actual A-brands, but only an elite few that M&S knows people would otherwise go elsewhere to buy. And there’s a special aisle that I can only describe as a ‘cornucopia of culinary delights from around the world’, such as might be found in a posh deli.

The whole shelf is deliciously emotional as far as I’m concerned, but I was especially drawn to this little masterpiece of sea salt packaging, with its naive landscape painting of the Camargue, authentic cork lid and seal from the walled town of Aigues Mortes. Next door the biggest herb packs in the world haven’t quite captured the essence of Provence, despite the use of a ‘label Rouge’ that looks like it was scribbled on the back of an envelope by the Mayor.